Best skincare ingredients for fine lines & anti-ageing

The 11 ingredients that help

Start here: gentle and effective

Bakuchiol

A plant extract (from babchi seeds) that works like retinol in small studies, with far less dryness and no sun sensitivity. It is milder and slower than a true retinoid.

Exosomes

Tiny cell-signalling particles, most often derived from plant or stem-cell cultures for cosmetic use. In-clinic exosome treatments (injected or applied after microneedling) have more published evidence than the topical serums sold direct to consumers. Regulatory status varies by country, and topical evidence is still described as early and limited, so treat "regeneration" or anti-ageing claims with caution.

Ferulic Acid

A plant antioxidant best known for stabilising vitamins C and E. Together the trio roughly doubles photoprotection compared with vitamin C alone.

PDRN

Polydeoxyribonucleotide, a salmon-DNA-derived ingredient best known from in-clinic "salmon DNA" injections and now sold in serums. Early clinical studies suggest it may support tissue repair and hydration, but topical (as opposed to injected) evidence is still limited, so treat claims of dramatic results with caution.

Stronger options (introduce slowly)

Glycolic Acid

The smallest alpha-hydroxy acid, so it penetrates deepest. It dissolves the bonds between dead skin cells for smoother, brighter skin and fades marks, but it is the AHA most likely to sting. Use 2–3 nights a week after cleansing. Skip it on nights you use retinoids. Sunscreen is non-negotiable because AHAs raise sun sensitivity.

Retinal

Retinaldehyde is one conversion step closer to retinoic acid than retinol, so it works faster than retinol while usually being gentler than tretinoin. It also has a mild antibacterial effect useful for acne. Start at 0.05% two or three nights a week and build up slowly. Buffer with moisturiser if you are sensitive, and wear SPF daily.

Vitamin C

A powerful antioxidant that brightens dull skin, fades dark spots and boosts your sunscreen's protection against free radicals. Pure L-ascorbic acid works best at a low pH and oxidises (turns orange) quickly. Apply in the morning on clean skin before moisturiser and sunscreen. Store it away from light and heat, and throw it out once it turns dark orange.

Retinol

The most studied over-the-counter anti-ageing active. Retinol speeds up cell turnover, softens fine lines, fades marks and keeps pores clear, but it can cause dryness, peeling and sun sensitivity while your skin adjusts. Start 2–3 nights a week on dry skin, a pea-sized amount for the whole face, then build up. Always wear sunscreen the next morning.

Combinations that work

Don't layer these together

Frequently asked questions