The 11 ingredients that help
| Ingredient | Strength | Irritation | When | Pregnancy |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Bakuchiol | 0.5% – 2% | AM/PM | Ask | |
| PHA | 3% – 10% | AM/PM | Safe | |
| Lactic Acid | 5% – 10% | PM | Safe | |
| Mandelic Acid | 5% – 10% | PM | Safe | |
| Urea | 5% – 10% (face), up to 40% (feet) | AM/PM | Safe | |
| Glycolic Acid | 5% – 10% | PM | Safe | |
| Retinal | 0.05% – 0.2% | PM | Avoid | |
| Salicylic Acid | 0.5% – 2% | AM/PM | Ask | |
| Adapalene | 0.1% | PM | Avoid | |
| Retinol | 0.1% – 1% | PM | Avoid | |
| Tretinoin | 0.025% – 0.1% (prescription) | PM | Avoid |
Start here: gentle and effective
Bakuchiol
A plant extract (from babchi seeds) that works like retinol in small studies, with far less dryness and no sun sensitivity. It is milder and slower than a true retinoid.
PHA
Polyhydroxy acids are the gentlest chemical exfoliants. They work only on the surface, hydrate at the same time, and are usually tolerated by sensitive and rosacea-prone skin.
Lactic Acid
A gentler AHA with a larger molecule. It exfoliates while also acting as a humectant, so it suits dry and sensitive skin that cannot tolerate glycolic acid.
Mandelic Acid
The largest, slowest AHA. Dermatologists often pick it for melanin-rich Indian skin tones because it treats acne and pigmentation with a lower risk of post-inflammatory darkening.
Stronger options (introduce slowly)
Glycolic Acid
The smallest alpha-hydroxy acid, so it penetrates deepest. It dissolves the bonds between dead skin cells for smoother, brighter skin and fades marks, but it is the AHA most likely to sting. Use 2–3 nights a week after cleansing. Skip it on nights you use retinoids. Sunscreen is non-negotiable because AHAs raise sun sensitivity.
Retinal
Retinaldehyde is one conversion step closer to retinoic acid than retinol, so it works faster than retinol while usually being gentler than tretinoin. It also has a mild antibacterial effect useful for acne. Start at 0.05% two or three nights a week and build up slowly. Buffer with moisturiser if you are sensitive, and wear SPF daily.
Salicylic Acid
An oil-soluble beta-hydroxy acid that gets inside pores to dissolve the sebum and dead skin behind blackheads, whiteheads and breakouts. It is the go-to for oily, acne-prone skin. Use as a cleanser daily or a leave-on 2% serum 3–4 times a week. It can dry out skin, so moisturise well.
Adapalene
A synthetic retinoid built for acne. It unclogs pores and calms the inflammation behind breakouts. It is more stable than retinol, and in India it is sold as a gel (often by prescription). Apply a thin layer to the whole acne-prone area at night, not just on spots. Expect a purge for 4–6 weeks. Use a moisturiser and daily SPF.
Combinations that work
Don't layer these together
Frequently asked questions
What is the best skincare ingredient for texture?
Start with Bakuchiol, PHA and Lactic Acid, which are effective and gentle. Stronger options such as Glycolic Acid, Retinal and Salicylic Acid work faster but irritate more. Introduce them one at a time.
Can I combine ingredients for texture?
Yes. Proven pairs include Lactic Acid + Urea, Mandelic Acid + Urea and Urea + Glycolic Acid. Avoid layering PHA with Lactic Acid and PHA with Mandelic Acid in the same routine.
Which texture ingredients are pregnancy-safe?
PHA, Lactic Acid, Mandelic Acid, Urea and Glycolic Acid are generally considered safe, but always check with your doctor.